The World of The Hearts of Heroes – Part IV – Ffos Anoddun: The Fairy Glen of Wales

Greetings Readers and History-Lovers, and Happy New Year!

We’re back for another post in The World of The Hearts of Heroes blog series in which we look at the history, people and places that are featured in the latest Eagles and Dragons historical fantasy novel.

If you missed the previous post on the seasonal celebrations of the ancient Celts, you can read that by CLICKING HERE.

In Part IV, we’re going to be taking a brief look at a very special and mysterious place that captivated my imagination from the first moment I saw a picture of it many years ago. In fact, this remote and, some would say, ‘magical’ place, has at last ended up in one of my novels, The Hearts of Heroes.

I’m referring to the Fairy Gully near Betws-y-Coed in northern Wales, also known as ‘Ffos Anoddun’.

Be sure to read all the way to the end for a special peek at a piece from my very early days as a writer, inspired by this amazing place.

I hope you enjoy!

The Fairy Glen, Wales

The Fairy Glen near Betws-y-Coed may well be one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. In Welsh, it is known as ‘Ffos Anoddun’, which means ‘a difficult ditch’. Of course, the literal translation does not do the place justice.

What is it exactly, and where is it located?

The Fairy Glen (we’ll refer to it as such from now on) is a natural gorge formed by the waters of the River Conwy at the eastern edge of the magnificent and rugged Snowdonia National Park, or ‘Eryri’, in northern Wales. It lies just two miles south of the village of Betws-y-Coed, which was the site of an early Celtic Christian monastery founded in the 6th century A.D., as well as a later lead mining industry.

Snowdonia (Eryri) National Park, Wales

The Fairy Glen is a beautiful, almost ethereal gully of moss-covered rocks and waterfalls along the river that is serene and atmospheric. And, as the name suggests it has long been associated with, you guessed it, fairies.

When we refer to ‘fairies’ however, at least in this context, we are not talking about the cute, minuscule, Tinkerbellesque creatures put on us by Walt Disney. As J.R.R. Tolkien insisted – and he was not a fan of Disney – there was much more to fairies that what popular films or cartoons show us:

“The realm of fairy-story is wide and deep and high and filled with many things… Faërie contains many things besides elves and fays, and besides dwarfs, witches, trolls, giants, or dragons…”

J.R.R. Tolkien, On Fairy-Stories (1947)

Artist impression of the Tywyth Teg, the ‘Fair Folk’

British and Irish folklore and mythology are replete with traditions around fairies, ‘the good people’ as they were often called by humans. They figure largely in Welsh folklore, and the Fairy Gully near Betws-y-Coed has strong associations with fairies and sprites. These are the ‘Tywyth Teg’, or ‘Fair Folk’ of Welsh tradition.

Geoffrey Ashe, one of the great experts on the mythology of the British Isles wrote about the dangers that also surrounded the fairies and their world:

“One human name for them, ‘the good people’, was a propitiatory compliment inspired by the uneasy knowledge that they were not good, or not reliably so. They could be mischievous, and far worse than mischievous. They were apt to steal away children for breeding purposes, and leave substitutes or changelings who were stunted, strange, disturbing. When angry, they might use magical powers to inflict disease…

…Yet they could be benevolent. They might live unseen in a fireplace and help with housework, so long as the fireplace was kept clean for them. They could lend farmers wonderful cattle that yielded unending milk. If they took a liking to a child, they could bestow beauty, talent, good luck. Fairy women were known to marry mortal men and to bring them happiness. But most of the benefactions were subject to some taboo, and if this was broken, however trivially, with whatever absence of intent, all was lost.”

– Geoffrey Ashe, Mythology of the British Isles

Many of the archetypes described by Ashe above are prevalent in the collection of Welsh, mythological tales known as the Mabinogi, especially in my favourite of these, the tale of Pwyll, Prince of Dyfed.

Fairies also had kings and queens. The oldest among these was, of course, Gwyn ap Nudd, the Lord of Annwn, the Celtic otherworld, and leader of the Wild Hunt, who has sometimes made an appearance in the Eagles and Dragons series.

Artist impression of an Elven maiden from the Faery world

In Welsh folklore, the ‘Fair Folk’, the ‘Tywyth Teg’, refers to different beings, including the Ellyllon (elves), Bwbachod (house spirits), Coblynaw (mine spirits), Gwrageddannwn (lake maidens), and the Gwyllion (mountain spirits).

It is said that they have all been associated with the Fairy Glen at Betws-y-Coed where they were believed to gather at the moonlit pools, as indeed was the case at similar places across the British Isles. In fact, to this day, people still leave coins for the ‘Fair Folk’ at the Fairy Glen.

Ffos Anoddun, the Fairy Glen, near Betws-y-Coed in northern Wales

As someone who has studied Arthurian lore for many years, my favourite legend surrounding the Fairy Glen revolves around Merlin.

One more modern, local tradition tells of how Merlin sought refuge at the Fairy Glen. He is supposed to have done so in order to recover after the strain of using so much of his power to help Uther come to Ygerna at Tintagel Castle. This was, of course, the act that brought about the birth of Arthur.

Though this may be a fabricated association, what it does do is reinforce the perception of the Fairy Glen as a place of great mystery. If one thing is certain, however, it is that the Fairy Glen near Betws-y-Coed is a place that has inspired deep belief in the world beyond the veil and those who dwell there.

And who are we to say it is wrong? In studying mythology and Arthurian traditions, I’ve found that much of the time there is some basis in fact and that, to me at least, is indeed magical.

Waterfall at Ffos Anoddun, The Fairy Glen, Wales

Now for the special peek at a piece from my very early days as a writer which I mentioned at the outset. 

I had my first glimpse of the Fairy Glen one Christmas back in 1993 when I received a copy of Geoffrey Ashe’s wonderful book Mythology of the British Isles from my parents. I flipped through it immediately and came upon the picture you see below. I was inspired by this amazing place, even in black and white, and so in my mid-teens I wrote the following poem which was later published in my high-school paper.

I wrote this without any knowledge of form at the time as I was new to poetry. The following was just my younger self deeply inspired by this single image.

I hope you enjoy.

The Fairy Glen – from Geoffrey Ashe’s Mythology of the British Isles

Queen of the Fairy Gully

by: Adam Haviaras

 

There is a place

That man has not sullied,

Peace is always present

In the Fairy Gully.

 

A soft stream flows

Like sweet music to the ears,

The trees are emerald green

Their leaves shed dewy tears.

 

The moss-covered rocks

Protrude from the edge.

There the Fairy Queen sits,

The soft moss for her bed.

 

The fairy kingdom wakes

To see something afloat.

It is two young lovers

Asleep in a boat.

 

The young man and young woman

Had lately been wed.

The still fresh garlands

Under their tranquil heads.

 

Both are entwined

As pure as can be,

Love next to love

Ever so softly.

 

“Look,” said a fairy.

“The boat has hit ground.

We must send it down stream

Without making a sound.”

 

“Wait,” said the Queen.

“They pose us no threat.

I shall go see

What they dream in their heads.”

 

So down she went

To the lovers afloat.

Still laying asleep

In their small bridal boat.

 

The fairies watched

Their queen from up high,

As she placed her wee hands

On the lovers’ closed eyes.

 

“My dear Queen,” uttered one.

“Is something very wrong?”

“Yes sweet fairy.

They dream a sad song.”

 

“Their families spoke

And forbid them to wed.

Rather than obey

They picked up and then fled.”

 

“What do they wish for,” asked another,

“Within these sad dreams?”

“They wish for happiness, peace and love,

For the whole of eternity.”

 

“Help we will give

To this young couple,

By fulfilling their dreams

And freeing them of troubles.”

 

“Upon the morn,” declared the Queen,

“Take we them to the place,

To be alone under the Oak.

Untouched by all hate.”

 

The fairy Cordelia

Came forward to say,

“Dream dust shall I give them

To make sure they will stay.”

 

So the lovers dreamt dreams

And the fairies did too,

In this lush green world,

Glimmering moonlight and dew.

 

The early morning sun

Did thread its way down.

That orb shed its light

On the young lovers’ crowns.

 

The mist was thick

And the water calm,

As the fairies moved the boat

With their otherworld song.

 

“This deed shall we do,”

The Fairy Queen said.

“This couple will lie

In a warm bridal bed.”

 

The boat drifted up

To a white sandy shore,

Where a path led away

Through the Fairy world’s door.

 

Cordelia then spoke

With worry and haste,

“My Queen, how will we take them

To the ever-peaceful place?”

 

“Fear not, precious fairy.

I know what to do.

Behind that bush

There the stream flows through.”

 

“Spirits of the wood

Conduct this small boat,

Wherein lie these lovers

Who yet have some hope.”

 

The bush moved aside

And the boat moved along,

As the fairies sang again

Their ancient forest song.

 

Closer they came,

And the world all turned bright.

Water, rocks, moss and dew,

The gully flooded with light.

 

At long last there it was,

The life of this small folk.

Branching out to the sun

Was the old sacred Oak.

 

Its body was huge

And its limbs full of grace.

The leaves tell a story

Of countless lived days.

 

Down at the bottom

On the soft ground,

Grows a bed of bluebells

For the couple to sleep sound.

 

“Now,” said the Queen,

We must do what is best.

On bluebells lay we them

Before they wake from their rest.”

 

Once more the song came

With ever sweet delight.

The couple was lain

On flowers for that night.

 

“Fairies return to the wood.

We must not disturb,

These two that I wake.

We must be unheard.”

 

The fairies obeyed

The words of their Queen,

Who woke the fair couple

Upon the coming of eve.

 

The moon rose up

And the sun went down.

The couple awoke

To look all around.

 

“What beautiful place is this?”

Asked the young maid.

“I know not where we be,

But we must always stay.”

 

“Truly this is,” said the boy,

“A very peaceful place.

Never again shall we bear

Any anger or hate.”

 

Up above in the leaves

Sat the caring Queen.

A smile on her face,

A tear on her cheek.

 

“Live as one,” said the Queen.

“Be happy and free.

You will always be safe

In our green Fairy Gully.”

 

The maid and young man

Do dwell there all along.

At night, as they embrace,

They hear a comforting song.

 

And so the young lovers

Fulfill their life’s dream.

Due to the precious help

Of the loving Fairy Queen.

 

Here is the end

Of this ancient story.

New love and old song

In the green Fairy Gully.

 

END 

Thank you for reading.

We hope you’ve enjoyed this article about the Fairy Glen near Betws-y-Coed in Wales.

If you are interested in getting a copy of Geoffrey Ashe’s magnificent book, Mythology of the British Isles, you can do so by CLICKING HERE.

Tune in for Part V in The World of The Hearts of Heroes when we will be looking at the place the Romans referred to as Mona, that is, the Isle of Anglesey.

The Hearts of Heroes: A Novel of the Roman Empire is available ebook, paperback and deluxe hardcover editions from all major online retailers, independent bookstores, brick and mortar chains, and your local public library.

CLICK HERE to buy a copy and get ISBN#s for the edition of your choice.

If you are new to the Eagles and Dragons historical fantasy series, you can start your epic adventure with the award-winning, #1 bestselling prequel, A Dragon among the Eagles.

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Pwyll Prince of Dyfed – Celtic Archetypes in the Mabinogi

Every so often I like to take a break from reading fiction to enjoy some primary sources. This isn’t just for research. I like the primary sources, especially those in the Celtic and Arthurian realm.

Some of my favourite sources are the medieval Welsh tales assembled in what is known as the Mabinogi (or, Mabinogion), translated by Lady Charlotte Guest in the mid-19th century.

Lady Charlotte Guest

Some of the stories in the Mabinogi are retellings of the later medieval romances. However, some of the earlier tales, those known as the ‘Four Branches of the Mabinogi’, are believed to be more ancient tales from the days of the Celtic heroic age.

These ‘Four Branches’ are the most interesting to me and are a true escape into a world of magical beasts and enchanted realms. They are also believed to have been teaching texts for young Welsh princes of the day, intended to show them the characteristics of good, kingly rule and behaviour.

The Four Branches of the Mabinogi, which are tied together by the character of Pryderi, include the following tales:

Pwyll, Prince of Dyfed

Branwen, Daughter of Llyr

Manawydan, Son of Llyr

Math, Son of Mathonwy

Pwyll – by Alan Lee

Of the four branches, Pwyll, Prince of Dyfed is my absolute favourite. I have never tired of reading it since I first studied it in university. Not only is it full of magic, love, battles, monsters, and tales of honour and betrayal, but it’s also a perfect illustration of Celtic archetypes. We’ll go over a few of these, but first, here is the story in brief:

Pwyll, a mortal man, is a Prince of Dyfed who comes into contact with Arawn, King of Annwn, the Celtic Otherworld. The two become friends and switch places for a year so that Pwyll can help Arawn defeat a foe in his own world. Pwyll succeeds and becomes ‘Head of Annwn’. While he was away, Arawn ruled justly and fairly in his place, and Pwyll’s subjects ask him to continue the good rule, which he does.

Then, one day while Pwyll is out with his men, he is sitting on a magical hill when he sees a woman on a magical horse that cannot be caught up to. This is Rhiannon, a maiden from the Otherworld. On a third attempt to catch up to her, she stops for Pwyll whom she has been seeking. They are to marry, but their marriage is delayed by another suitor to Rhiannon, Gwawl, who tricks Pwyll into giving Rhiannon to him. But Rhiannon saves Pwyll from himself by giving him a magic bag which he uses to capture Gwawl.

Arawn’s Hounds

Pwyll and Rhiannon are married, and after a while, they finally have a son. But on the night of his birth, the boy is taken from them. The frightened servants conspire to blame Rhiannon, and accuse her of eating her child. Pwyll, as a ruler, must assign a punishment to his wife for this, and orders her to carry visitors to the castle upon her back while telling them what she did. The land suffers after this.

Luckily, Teirnon, a man loyal to Pwyll, finds the child when the monstrous hand that is taking his horses also leaves a baby. Teirnon slays the hand and saves the baby whom he and his wife foster. After some years, Teirnon realizes that the child resembles his lord, Pwyll, and so he and his wife take the child back to his parents, thus redeeming Rhiannon, giving Pwyll back his heir, and restoring the land once more.

This is a highly abbreviated version of the story, and if it does spark some interest, you should definitely read it. Pwyll makes a good read while curled up next to your hearth fire.

Of all the tales in the Mabinogi, this one feels like the neatest, if that makes sense. It has three sections – Pwyll in Annwn; Pwyll and Rhiannon; and the disappearance of Pwyll and Rhiannon’s son, Pryderi.

The number three and the occurrence of things in threes is a strong archetype in Celtic tradition.

Patterns of the number three occur in the number of Arawn’s dogs, and the number of times Rhiannon appears to Pwyll before she stops, for instance.

Magical animals are also common in Celtic tales; Arawn has three white hounds with red-tipped ears, and Rhiannon rides a magical white horse that cannot be caught. She is also followed by magical birds wherever she goes.

Rhiannon – by Alan Lee

The character of Rhiannon is one of my favourite things in Pwyll – her magic, her beauty, her strength. I also love her portrayal as the goddess Epona, who also rode a white horse, was accompanied by birds, or foals, and carried a magical bag that symbolized her role as a fertility goddess.

The theme of contact between the natural world and the Celtic Otherworld is also strong.

Pwyll meets Arawn in the forest, meets with Rhiannon who is from the Otherworld, and then there is the otherworldly monster that steals their child. There is a constant fluidity between the two worlds in the Four Branches of the Mabinogi.

The archetype of the magical hill is one that is strong in Celtic myth. Pwyll is sitting on a magical hill when Rhiannon appears to him. Hills were said to be gateways to the Otherworld. This reminds me of Glastonbury Tor which was believed to be a gateway to Annwn.

Glastonbury Tor

In the second part of Pwyll, we see the themes of the feast and the rival suitor where Pwyll’s judgement is tested. With the help of Rhiannon and her magical bag, another archetype, the marriage of the mortal and otherworldly being comes to fruition. This too is a common theme.

But there are more trials in the form of the demonization of Rhiannon which symbolizes the loss of the goddess’ power and the subsequent weakening of the land as Pwyll remains powerless to do anything but punish his wife in the face of the loss of their son.

Teirnon slaying the Monster – by Alan Lee

The finding and fostering of the lost child is also common to Celtic literature, and when Teirnon returns the child to Pwyll, Rhiannon is released from her bondage and the land blossoms once again.

Those of you with an Arthurian bent like me will spot the similarities right away in the fostering of Arthur with Sir Ector, and his teaching by Merlin. And when Guinevere is demonized in Arthurian tradition, Arthur falls into despair and the land suffers.

What is interesting in this tale is that Pwyll’s deficiencies are repaired by his contact with, and subsequent learning from, stronger figures than himself, namely Arawn, Rhiannon, and his loyal subject Teirnon. As the story progresses, we are witness to Pwyll’s growth in wisdom, courtesy and generosity – the things that make a king truly great.

Arthur

The Celtic archetypes in this tale and others help to bridge the gap between the natural world and Otherworld, to educate the hero, and light the hero’s way to effective sovereignty.

If you have never done so, I recommend that you read the tales contained in the Mabinogi, especially Pwyll, Prince of Dyfed. Let them envelop and transport you to that time long ago when goddesses emerged from the woods and Fairy lords befriended their mortal counterparts.

I hope you find these tales as entertaining and educational as I have.

Thank you for reading.

You can download a FREE electronic version (all formats) of the Mabinogi at the Project Gutenberg website by clicking HERE.

You can also read a bit more about the Mabinogi on the Camelot Project web pages.

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